Chaugan Stadium

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	(click image to enlarge)
	An antique postcard by the studio of Gobindram Oodeyram, from the private collection of Shri Ashwin Dayal (purchased on ebay) shows an Elephant Fight in progress sometime in the early 1900’s. In the “bhurji” on the left one can see purdahs sheltering the women above and perhaps the Maharaja himself standing below watching the fight from a vantage point. Farther away the crowds of commoners watch the spectacle free, from a safe distance atop the gate. (click image to enlarge)

Chaugan literally means an open space. The stadium was built as a fortified maidan (ground) consisting of a larger enclosure and several smaller playgrounds. It is situated between the Gangauri Bazar and the west wall of the City Palace and is close to the Talkatora Lake. The Teej festival used to be held here and still is, as also other amusements, including equestrian displays and elephant fights. The latter continued till the early 1900s.
Chaugan is also a pharsi word for a hockey stick like piece of wood which is curved on one end. The game played with that stick and a ball was also referred to as Chaugan. At the time of Akbar and other Moghul emperors, even the princesses used to play Chaugan astride on their horses.
There are three octagonal bastions at the Chaugan Stadium surmounted by pillared and flat roofed pavilions within the larger enclosure. The first burj on the right at the north-west corner of the smaller playground, where the elephants were kept, is known as the Chini-ki-Burj. Its walls and ceilings were covered with blue porcelain (Chini) tiles. The British resident and other foreign officers watched the festivities from here.
Further at the north-east corner of another playground, adjoining the Palace is the Moti Burj, which was built by Ishwar Singh. This was reserved for the Raja himself. In the north-east corner is also the Chatar Mahal with fine arched dalans and the Chatar Burj. The dalans were used by the Royalty as pavilions for watching the elephant fights within the enclosure below.
To the north of the Moti Burj lies the Shyam Burj. Within it was a big well, whose water was raised to a high level to work the fountains in Palace Gardens. On its upper storey was an octagonal verandah whose arched openings were fitted with jails (meshes) for the privacy of the Royal ladies watching the sports. The roof was used by the Maharaja and his nobles.
Today, the Chaugan Stadium has lost its royal amphitheater like elegance. A number of structures have been erected without much planning and unsightly buildings surround the stadium.
However, all is not lost and the stadium comes alive during Holi, when an elephant festival is held at the stadium. The owners decorate their elephants with bright colours, jhools (saddle cloth) and jewellery. Cow elephants are made to wear payals or anklets, which tinkle as they walk. Prizes are given for the most beautifully decorated elephant.
Some of the events are a polo match, an elephant race and even a tug-of-war between one elephant and 19 men and women, often tourists. Those that feel that the challenge is unfair will take heart in noting that the elephant usually wins hands down dragging the tourists around the stadium for good measure.
The most exciting part of the festival is playing holi while seated on the elephant. The elephants put up a variety program and Chaugan Stadium blooms with musicians and dancers. The ceremonial procession has caparisoned elephants, lancers on horses, chariots, camels, canons and palanquins.

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